The trike is now a lovely shade of Neon Yellow.I painted the frame with a mustard Yellow to become a dark background base. The paint was both primer and paint in one spray can.I had to wait a day for the paint coat to dry before I then used a sunburst Yellow to begin to brighten the tone of the color.I wanted to find as bright a neon Yellow as possible.
When an on coming auto looked at this trike,I wanted them to see an object that is a reason to need shades/sunglasses to look at it.I now have a Yellow neon color that is so Neon,It actually is painful to look at in bright sunlight.I would classify this as a definite success.To explain running into such an overly obvious sunburst would be unexplainable even if the auto driver blamed the whole thing on his seeing eye dog or the auto pilot driving his car.
I must admit that I just bought a dandy little welder for the ridiculously low price of $80.American.from a place called Tractor Supply Store.It uses 1/16th and 1/8th welding rod.IThe welder runs off the standard 115volt house currentt is truly a life saver when it comes to light weight welding.In just 4hours I had retaught myself how to weld.I reurned the wire mig welder that I had bought.Not what I was familiar with.
The Welder was a last ditch effort to save me from tearing my hair out in despair.The bolted on Deraileur I was using to take up the long chains slack was totally uncooperative in staying in place when power was put to the pedals.So..I built a crude standard from an old frame that originally held a 200gallon kerosene tank.When the trike sets on this frame it is supported on either side of the main tube to support the front of the trike.A single support on the frame just in front of the rear wheel.This arrangement allows for the pedaling while adjusting different mechanisms.It also usurps the rediculois costs of buying a “PROFESSIONAL”work stand for the mega cost.I then proceeded to use my new Handy Dandy welder(my name for it)to break my plan to completely build a trike with no welds at all.A friend quickly pointed out the fact that it already had welds from the original Bikes I had cannabalized to build it.NOT a satisfactory consolation to me,but I visuallized me stopping every 100yards to tighten that */!**?bolt on the chain idler.It is really a great job of welding.That weld will still be there holding the deraileur 10years from now.guess I musta been a tad bit more frustrated than i realized.Yup,musta been plenty ticked off alright…
So now I am working on a system to allow this trike to lean into the curves to relieve tipping and side stress on my front wheels.This is the idea that I came up with.I tried to read up on all the techie stuff about Ackermen,blah,blah blah.Well thats all great if you are interested in such things.I have a reputation of coming to the split in the woods and taking the less traveled path.So this is how I am proceeding.
After building the axles with wheels attached I tipped the axle back so the connecting rod is 15degrees lower than the front axles.After the axle is attached to the frame you will be able to turn the wheels and the trike will lean in the direction of the turn.A little tinkering with your particular trike design will find that if you find a way to add a series of adjustments for the amount of tilt,it will be easier to fine tune just how much you are willing to see the road coming up to greet you speeding face leaning ever closer to the blacktop.
I had a revelation recently when a local Wallys World sale(Walmart to the You)was selling out a Mongoose mountain bike with 29inch wheels with front and rear disk brakes.Lotsa hardware just sitting there for me.I tried to walk by it and the voices in my head said,”Hey Bud,got a deal for ya.You need this bike,you gotta have this.Ya just can not live without these parts,er I mean this bike…Ok.I sorta made up the part about the voices in my head.But everyone did know that I wanted the parts to save money and improve my trike.I plan on using the rear 29inch with disk brake on the trike.I promised myself to ride it till my trike is calling to sacrifice it to the trike for upgrading purposes.
This Mongoose MT bike has quuando hubs which many have stated are hubs that may not last long.Not good for a long distant ride.soo..I went to work to find a remedy for preventive foresight.Problem is that the Quando hubs have a write up on the net that the wheels are weak.But the Hubs only last a very short time before the bearing give out.Some comments to the bike forum stated only 45miles on the hubs to self destruct.But in my madness,I have a plan.Read on my friend.
have read an article on building hubs from scratch.Cut out of 1/8inch steel two circles the size of what your hubs are.That is to say the part of the hub that the spokes normally lace into near the axle.If you dont have a lathe then this method will serve you to actually make great nearly indestructable hubs.Ok,you got the round circles cut out with a hacksaw,torch or what ever.file or grind the rough circles to round perfect shape.take your time and do it right.You will need to at least match the original hub size you are replacing or you will need a new set of spokes to respoke your rim to the new hub you are constructing.
Nect you need to find a pattern for the holes that your spokes lace through.I am using an old hub from an old experiment.I had cut the hub off so it was a single side of the hub.Lay a piece of paper down against the circles you cut out.Paper on top of the old hub.By rubbing the top of the paper over the hub,you will now have all the holes for spoke to transfer the spoke pattern onto the paper/pattern.This pattern is then carefully glued to the metal disk.you need to now carefully drill your 32 holes from the pattern.This is also easier if all the disks are fastened together before drilling with the paper pattern glued on the very top disc.
Next your going to need a way to join the two sides of your hub.measure the old hub on the outside and then inside.these two measurements will be for the inner and outside tubes of your new hub.If your using cartrage bearings,run down to the local Lowes or whatever hardware and take your axle you intend to use on your future hub.surprisingly you will find the same bearings in different sizes the bike suppliers charge an arm and led for. The price is just a few dollars with industrial quality.The only real measurement at this point is the two measurements you took from the old hub.The new cartrage bearing must allow the axle to pass through the bearing.I actually dumped the axle from my converted bicycle wheel.A case hardened #8 bolt that fits the bearing worked just great.
I took the metal discs,now with the required 32spoke holes drilled into them all.note the holes of the old hub you are copying have the spoke holes filed at an angle.this can be done with a bit of patience with a tiny hobby file.Pay particular attention to which way the old hub was filed.It is very inportant for the future spoking of your super wheel.
Ok,this seems like a lota work.Don’t lose faith,almost there.when this is done,you will have hubs of steel like no one else.Next place your new cartage bearings in the center of the metal discs you cut into a circle.You can find the center of the discs by drawing lines across the top disc.the lines will intersect in the center.That will be a rough center point that you can now drill a hole and put a bolt thru to hold the washers together.A bolt the size of the axle will allow the bearing to be bolted on top of the metal circles you drilled spoke holes in.
Now draw aline around the bearing.This gives you the size you will need to drill for the bearing to fit.Unbolt the bearing from the discs.Drill the hole for the bearing.This is the line you traced around the bearing on the metal discs.Almost there, hard part is mostly over.you now should have 4metal discs with 32 spoke holes around the outer edge.A hole in each disc that the cartage bearing should fit through.If I have been clear enough to this point,then we are all on the same page.If I have lost you,well just go back throught this article and systematically follow the instructions without trying to reason it out.The pieces will soon show you the way.
You must now measure how wide your old axle was in the forks.This can very as needed.remeber this is your custom made hub and wheel…The with is determined by a lot of factors.I would advise you to just use the old width of the old hub.The engineers that designed the old hub used all the R and D(Research and Developement).A lot of cash went into figuring side stress etc.Better to go with the flow then try to reinvent the wheel.To use a cliche.
Now comes the final pieces of my master design.From the bearing revolving to the right you can see the bearing has a center that has to sit againsta tube behind the bearing.Ok here is how to finish this creation.you will need a tube the bearings will fit into.This is the tube that will hold hold the metal discs as a hubone at each end of th tube.Note:the heavier the tube,the stronger the structure.1/8th inch in standard on most hubs.The inner tube will allow the axle/bolt etc to pass thru with a bearing fittinf into the outside tube and butting up against the inner tubing.
IF….you now have all the pieces for assembly…The next thing needed will unfortunatly be some one to weld up or super epoxy the whole thing together.by buying the above welder,I figured I saved around $200.on trying to have suppliers send me the proper parts.It really took more time to figure this out and hunt the parts down then think tanking the design.Some one told me the design was similar to anothr online.I have not run that design down quite yet.But if it is there then maybe it is better than mine.worth a look.
The next entry into the trike will be the seat I refuse to pay 300bucks for.I am going to experiment with some fibeglass clothe and resin with metal support for mounting.I promised to flash some photos for the eye candy effect.
so far I have been more involved in the design and building of my magnum trike.I am still working on a way to place a set of deraileur freewheel on a Sturmey archer 3speed hub.Thus 15-21speeds all on the rear wheel.I will then add 3chaiwheels to a schlumpf pedal setup.The idea of an additional 34-42tooth sprocket addition to the rear wheel will make my trike able to leap tall mountains in a whole lota spinning.additionally I have found a chainwheel that has 73 teeth for those rocket rides downhill.
This is not my trike,but I thought I would show another builder for inspiration to others since I have not posted photos of mine yet.Looks like this builder also spent a while on him passion as I.
Next time I will tell about my sterring controls and various little tidbits that you might incorperate to safe a great deal of cussing out in the middle of no where with no one there to hear your poetic efforts of blowing of steam..:)
Looking forward to next time friends and readers.More detail is on the way.My contribution to the future Technomadic Life.Ride On and Live Free.
Please take a look some sights that I find interesting
Trike hobo,Bicycle touring,Cyclsource,Trike asylum,Adventure Cycling,Atomic Zombie,silent passing,Sheldo brown(rest in peace,but the master of building still).Still looking for more.Also recommend Bike forum.com
Till next time friends
Golden axle and chain (Photo credit: coofdy)
English: Home built delta recumbent trike. This trike is made from two 24″ MTB’s. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
Animation of Ball Bearing (Photo credit: Wikipedia)